- A measuring tape or ruler
- A bit of string OR
- Soft rubber tubing
- A marker
Take Measurements
Step 1:
It is very easy for equestrians at any skill level to fall into a one-size-fits-all mentality when it comes to finding the right fit for your horse’s mouth. Many bit styles are mass-manufactured in sizes of whole or half-inch increments, and the temptation is to take one's best guess and "make it work". Bit designs for every discipline range from very mild to brutal, depending on the manner in which they apply to the bars, tongue and roof of the mouth with even the slightest touch of the rider's rein. The first rule here is to actually measure your horse's mouth before you ever set foot into a store or open a catalog.
Step 2:
The bit should sit over the bars of the mouth, the soft tissue area located behind the front teeth that you can readily see. When properly placed, it should appear that the corners of the horse's lips are being slightly lifted - many people use the rule of "one wrinkle" at the corner of the mouth to determine placement. Adjusting the length of the headstall which attaches the bit to the bridle will raise or lower where the bit rests on the bars of his mouth. Too low, and the bit will knock against the horse's teeth, which is both uncomfortable for him and ineffective for the rider. Too high, and your horse will be strained, pinched at the corners of his mouth and uncomfortable, and he won't receive your signals well. So you will need to measure across the area where you expect the bit will sit comfortably.
Step 3:
Choose a strip of a soft, safe material such as a strand of yarn, a string or shoelace. One of the best ideas I have seen is to use a length of soft rubber tubing or an extra piece of garden-hose material to get some idea of the dimension the bit will add. Run this piece horizontally across the horse's mouth, over the tongue and behind his teeth, or coax him into accepting it as you would when bridling.
Step 4:
Once you've established the correct position, use your marker to mark the edges of your faux-bit where it meets the edge of the horse's lips. Remove the strand from his mouth and use your measuring tape to determine the length between markings in inches. As a general rule, the bit size will need to be 1/4 of an inch longer than this measurement to allow enough room so that extra width of the bit rings or shanks do not squeeze inward on the horse's mouth. You may find that the span of his mouth plus your 1/4" allowance is not a nice round number, and you can focus on finding a manufacturer who carries your bit in the correct size or is capable of custom-making one for your horse. It may take a little longer, but it is an investment that will save yours and your horse's sanity throughout your career together. Keep Your Eyes Open
Step 1:
While you are considering which bit style will best suit your horse in his training, you will also need to notice which elements of its design could potentially pinch, chafe or otherwise irritate him. Any bit that has a hinged attachment at the corners of the mouth presents a prime opportunity for pinching and sores to occur, especially if the bit is not the right size for your horse.
Step 2:
With bits that have hinged mouthpieces that swing or move freely, pinching is a problem. The loose-ring snaffle, tom thumb, "wonder" bit, or any bit with gag action (bits that allow the mouthpieces to slide) can pinch the corners of the horse's mouth or rub the skin raw. If your horse is having this problem, you'll often notice a small sore in the corner of his mouth, much like a sore you might get from walking in shoes that are a size too small. If this occurs, you'll need to switch bits or use round rubber bit guards that can be placed on each side of the bit. Once a sore has formed, your horse will need a few days to recover without use of the bit. Apply Vaseline or an antibiotic ointment to keep the wound from becoming dry, chapped or infected.
Step 3:
Keep an eye out for common clues that your horse might be reacting to a painful bit, rather than just resisting the rider. Behavioral symptoms: - Frequent bit chomping, persistently open mouth, or hanging out of the tongue. - Repeated head shaking or tossing. Carrying the head stiffly and high with nose in the air, often with his jaw stretched open or chomping almost compulsively. - Running away with his rider or leaning on his forehand against pressure on the reins. - Staying behind the bit, creating an unnatural and stiff bend in the neck which he achieves by putting his nose to his chest. The commonality among these behaviors is that each is a horse's attempt to escape or avoid the pain which he has been conditioned to expect during his rides. While our focus here is on the bit, there are other possible causes that should be considered, including the riding habits of a heavy-handed rider. ...............................................................................................................................................................
Retraining the “Hot Horse” By "G.R. Bork
This project requires a great deal of time, patience and consistency. THERE ARE NO SHORT CUTS !
The first thing you need to do is to get nature on your side. Also see article below.
Here are a few things that will help.
1) Feed only a good grade of hay, but not the high powered stuff, and feed as much as the horse wants.
2) Grain only on days when the horse works and only after the horse is thoroughly cooled down… always feed some hay before grain. This is a reward for the horse and replaces the energy use while working.
3) Work the horse only after feeding hay. Horses like people slow down with a full belly.
4) Do not work the horse just before feeding time. A hungry horse is more active.
5) This change in feeding will take 3-4 weeks to start yielding results.
Most Hot Horses have been conditioned to be that way. Unfortunately most horses used for competition have been partially trained and only know……Rider up…..now go! Most horses would prefer to relax.
1) Start all your sessions with no expectation. Horses all learn at their own pace. Take what the horse is willing to give you and build on that.
2) Again, work the horse with a belly full of hay, ( the horse not you.)
3) Work only in an enclosed area for now (an indoor arena or a pen).
4) Mount the horse and just sit there. Allow the horse to stand quietly. Do this for as long as it takes for the horse to accept the fact that it is safe and can relax with a rider on it’s back. You must sit still and do nothing. If the horse will not stand on it’s own, rather than fight about it, stand the horse with its' head in a corner. This could take up your entire first session or two.
5) Once the horse understands and will stand quietly in the center of the ring, you can move up to a walk (only) in a straight line and riding with a light to medium amount of contact. If the horse wants to go faster than a walk turn it in very tight circles until it will walk, then return to a straight line. Do not keep pulling on the horse’s mouth to slow it down!!!
6) After the horse will walk quietly, go the center of the ring and again just stand there and do nothing.
7) The horse will let you know when it’s ready to resume the session by giving you a deep breath or sigh.
8) After the horse will walk and stand quietly every time, add backing up to your session.
9) If at any point the horse starts resisting again, go back to basics and start over.
10) Work your way up the ladder until the horse will stand, walk, back up, trot and canter quietly.
You should have noticed the key word here for BOTH horse and rider is…………. QUIETLY.
A horse’s natural response to fear and pain is flight. To get nature on you side the horse must be comfortable in the mouth.
A stronger bit is never the answer. Any pain inflected by the bit will worsen the situation. I have spent many years
perfecting bits that are humane, fit and work correctly, and will apply pressure without the pain.
...........................................................................................................................................................................................
Getting Nature on your Side. By "G.R. Bork
Knowing what you have to work with can help you save time and avoid the frustration of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. By simply identifying the horse’s natural tendencies, you can better determine if a particular horse will suit your needs. Here are some easy ways to identify and work with those important natural tendencies.
This is what I call my bridge test. It will show a particular horse’s response to pressure and is accurate on horses of all ages. Cup your hand forming an arch with your thumb and first finger. Place this arch over the horses’ nose about three to four inches above the nostrils. Now apply a medium amount of pressure to the bridge of the horses’ nose. You are most likely to get one of four responses. Number one might be the horse just stands there and does nothing -- this horse is a dead head and may require a rider with a lot of strength. The second response could be the horse throws his head to push away the pressure -- this horse will probably fight you constantly, not a desirable quality. Third, you may encounter the horse which gives to the pressure but doesn’t move – this horse is a rubber neck and it will be difficult to keep him or her in a good working frame.
Now on to the star material -- here you will find the horse that gives to the pressure and is willing to move quietly away from it. This is a trainable horse and is obliviously the most desirable.
Oh, I almost forgot, there is a fifth possibility -- the horse may try to bite you. I suggest you stay away from that one.
Next, let’s do an attitude check. Look into the horse’s eye. What I like to see is a quiet, intelligent look--not a mischievous look that says, “ I’m going to test you constantly”, or a “Buzz off and leave me alone” look.
If what you see is a wide-eyed, “I’m afraid” look and you are willing to invest enough time to gain this horse’s trust, you will most likely end up with a horse that will try his heart out for you and give all his physical limitations will allow.
Watching the horse while turned out will also provide some useful information. Is he quiet or full of energy? When he moves forward, does the rear cannon bone move back past vertical? If so, this will be a poor lead changer.
Which front leg goes forward when he bends down to eat? This will be his strong leaded side. If he alternates the front legs, there’s a good chance he’ll be more athletic.
Does he tend to throw his head a lot? Is so, he’ll probably be a head tosser.
Here’s a little more “food for thought”. If your horse is too hot and you need to slow it down for training, try feeding a flake or so of hay about a half hour before your session (average hay only, not the rich stuff, and absolutely NOT GRAIN).
On the opposite side of that coin, if your horse is sluggish, but healthy, work him on an empty stomach and you’ll probably get a little more spirit.
Another option to pick his head up is to give him a cup of cool black coffee with double sugar. They seem to like it and it works. This also helps horses that have a tendency to tie-up because it causes them to urinate.
Regarding the question of how much pressure to use -- try to remember, you’re dealing with a animal that can feel a fly on it’s side. Too many riders use what I call the whisper-shout method. First they ask lightly, then they demand loudly, they get a response and move on. You’ve just taught the horse to respond to loud pressure only. To develop a light horse, you need to use the whisper-shout-whisper method which allows the horse to learn and respond to even the slightest pressure.
Also, I believe it is far more important to know when to release pressure than when to apply it. After all, the release of pressure is the horse’s only reward. Take that away and the horse has no reason to respond favorably.
A reining horse trainer I respect and admire, Mr. Bob Loomis, once told me something that makes a lot of sense to me: He said “ I only teach the horse one thing…I do the thinkin’ and he does the listenin’. When he tries to do the thinkin’… we have a little discussion about who does the thinkin’ and who does the listenin’ ”.
One last thought if I may…when dealing with people whom you believe are performing below par, try to
remember this, “ If everyone was as good as you… you wouldn’t be a star.”
Now there’s a double-edged sword for you. Maybe you should thank them for making YOU look so good.
“GR” Jerry Bork
American Bridle Bit
1064 Cove Rd.
Goodells, MI. 48027
810-543-7758
Questions or comments? Click here to Email us or call me personally on my direct line @ 810-543-7758
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